Autumn in Acadia

Over Columbus Day weekend, we went north to Acadia National Park. We camped in the Blackwoods Campground, just as we did in May 2013. The weather was cool (50s daytime and 30s at night) and rainy the first day but sunny the second. We were ready for it, though, and had a great time. The foliage was dazzling -- try as we might, however, we couldn't capture its intensity in photos.

The drive up was about eight hours. Roughly 40 minutes in, Sarah was feeling car sick, so we took an emergency bathroom break at a small-town coffee shop (I'll spare you the details, but there's nothing like exiting the only toilet to face a line of people who have been waiting about 15 minutes). Soon after that, we missed the turn onto I-495, which we can pretty much plan on now (Don swears it's not marked well). Things smoothed out after that, and we got to our site around 5:00. Don and I set up camp, while Sarah started building a fairy neighborhood. 

After dinner, we had a campfire and s'mores, then got ready for bed. As she was arranging her nest, Sarah discovered the purple sweatshirt that's been missing since our last camping trip tucked into the pillow pouch of her sleeping bag (I wish the lost red sweater that I knitted for her had been there, too!). We all read silently in bed for about half an hour before lights out -- a first -- which was super cozy.

We awoke to rain Sunday morning, so we decided to drive the park Loop Road, stopping at sites along the way. The last time we visited, the road was still closed for the winter, so we rode our bikes around a portion of it. This time, it was open, and we were amazed at the number of visitors. Cars and tour buses filled the parking lots and lined the roadsides. (We kept a list of license plates we spotted during the trip and ended up with 40 states and four Canadian provinces.)

Sarah remembered Thunder Hole from our last visit and was excited to see it again. We made our way through the crowd and stood by the rail for about 15 minutes, during which two people took nasty spills on the slippery rock walkway behind us. The tide was low and still going out, so the "thunder" wasn't as impressive as last time.

Next was Otter Cove, where we walked among the exposed rocks and marveled at the illusion caused by thousands of tiny barnacles on the granite face of the bridge, up to the high-tide mark, which gave the appearance of water even when it wasn't there.

We continued to Jordan Pond House, where busloads of people were lined up waiting to get into the restaurant to enjoy the signature popovers and tea. None of them, however, were sitting at the outside tables, where a stiff wind was blowing down the lake from "The Bubbles," making the rainy day even less hospitable.

After finishing the loop and eating lunch in the car at the Eagle Lake parking lot, we decided to explore the western "lobe" of Mount Desert (pronounced locally, by the way, more like the treat you enjoy after dinner than a large, arid area on the map) Island. The village of Somesville was utterly endearing, with crisp white buildings accented by ebony shutters. The colors by the foot bridge at the entrance to town were dazzling.

After a quick stop at Echo Lake, we continued to the westernmost side of the island, to Pretty Marsh. We followed an enchanting little trail through a hemlock and balsam fir forest (home to fairies, no doubt) to the water. We spotted two common loons on the water and an immature bald eagle atop a tree.

We returned to camp around 3:00. Don and Sarah headed for the tent -- he to nap and she to write stories -- while I read in the car. The rain continued, but I talked Sarah into hiking to the coast, then she worked on her fairy neighborhood. We enjoyed white chicken chili and corn bread for dinner (perfect foul-weather food) and were all in bed reading by 7:00. By this time, it was pouring and windy, but we were snug and warm!

Fortunately, the rain stopped by morning. It was chilly, though -- only 41 degrees! Definitely hot chocolate and oatmeal weather.

After breakfast, we headed out to bike the carriage road around Eagle Lake. (Between 1913 and 1940, John D. Rockefeller, Jr., funded and oversaw the construction of 45 miles of these wide trails, all closed to motor vehicles.) As he unloaded the bikes, Don discovered that his bike seat had broken in transit -- although the post was still in the tube, the seat swiveled at will. Always the trooper, he rode the bike that way, which made the six-mile excursion all the more challenging.

After lunch, we set off for Sand Beach with a specific goal -- to recreate a photo that Don and I took on our "first date" nearly 15 years ago. He was visiting me in Maine, and we drove to Acadia on New Year's Day 2002. We hiked the Great Head Trail, which overlooks Sand Beach, and he took the following shot:

He wanted to shoot an updated picture, and include Sarah. We set off across the beach and up the trail, original photo in hand, looking for the rock with the split in it and the leaning pine tree. 

It took a while, but we finally found the spot. Don set up his camera, and we all had lots of laughs as he repeatedly set the timer, pressed the shutter, and scurried across the rock to get into position.

Mission accomplished, we hiked around the trail and enjoyed views of Egg Rock Light and Schoodic Point (another unit of the park) across Frenchman Bay.

A trip to Acadia wouldn't be complete without visiting the summit of Cadillac Mountain. Although I had hoped to hike up with Sarah, we were running out of time, so we drove. We stopped part-way up to take a photo of Eagle Lake, with Blue Hill in the distance. 

Up top, it was windy (30-40 MPH) and cold (41 degrees). We took a short hike, enjoying views of Bar Harbor and the Porcupine Islands to the north, Otter Creek to the southeast, and the Cranberry Islands to the south. I recommend visiting Cadillac at the end of a trip, as it's fun to have a bird's eye view of the places you've been.

Back at camp, we ate dinner, enjoyed a fire, and crawled into our sleeping bags to read. Tuesday morning, while Don and I packed up camp, Sarah put the finishing touches on her fairy neighborhood and posted signs for the next occupants of our site. She was pretty clear about not wanting her work disturbed.

We took a windshield tour of Bar Harbor on the way off the island. The return trip was uneventful until Sarah got sick again about 15 miles from home. From now on, I think we'll skip the shortcuts on windy back roads and stick to the freeway.